Kitchen Planning: Gaps and Clearances for a 110cm Range Cooker

More range cooker orders go wrong on measurement than on anything else. Here is what to check, in the order it matters.

1. The aperture is not the cooker width

A 110cm range cooker does not fit a 110cm gap. You need the manufacturer's stated aperture, which allows tolerance for the cooker body, levelling feet adjustment, and the ability to actually slide it in and out for cleaning and servicing.

Get the exact figure for your specific model from its specification sheet before the cabinetry is cut. Ask us and we'll pull it for whichever model you're considering — we won't guess at it, because a guess that's 10mm out is a rebuilt run of units.

2. Side clearances to combustibles

Manufacturers specify minimum clearances from the cooker sides to adjacent combustible surfaces — typically tall units, end panels, or anything above hob level. For gas models this is a safety requirement, not a suggestion.

The practical implication: if your cooker sits in a run with tall units either side, the aperture may need to be wider than the minimum, or the adjacent panels may need heat protection. Resolve this with your kitchen designer using the actual model spec sheet.

3. Depth and the worktop line

Range cookers are generally deeper than 60cm and are designed to sit slightly proud of a standard worktop run, with the control panel and handles projecting further still. That projection is real — measure from the wall to the front of the handle, not to the front of the door glass.

Check what's behind. Skirting boards, pipework, and electrical sockets on the back wall all reduce how far back the cooker can sit, which pushes it further into the room.

4. Height and adjustment

Range cookers have adjustable feet so the hob can be levelled with the worktop. Check the adjustment range against your worktop height — particularly if you have a non-standard worktop height or a raised floor build-up.

5. Extraction clearance above

If you're fitting a hood, the required gap between the hob and the hood underside is specified by both manufacturers and you must satisfy the more demanding of the two. Plan this before the hood is ordered. See our guide on extraction for range cookers.

6. The delivery route — the one nobody checks

This defeats more orders than kitchen dimensions do. A 110cm range cooker is heavy and does not bend.

Measure: the narrowest point of the path from the vehicle to the kitchen. Front door width. Hallway width, and any turn in it — a 90-degree turn in a narrow hall is far more restrictive than the hall width alone suggests. Doorway heights. Step heights. Any stairs at all.

Check whether the delivery vehicle can get close enough to unload, and whether the floor between the door and the kitchen can take the weight without damage.

If access is tight, tell us before you order. It is a solvable problem when you know about it in advance and a very expensive one on delivery day.

7. Services in the right place

For dual fuel: the gas connection point must be positioned so the flexible hose can reach without strain and without preventing the cooker from being pulled out. There's also an electrical supply needed for the ovens.

For induction: a dedicated high-amperage circuit from the consumer unit, not a 13A plug. The isolation switch needs to be accessible but not behind the cooker.

Position both before the kitchen is fitted. Moving them afterwards means lifting flooring or cutting into finished walls.

The order to do this in

Choose the model, get its specification sheet, give the numbers to your kitchen designer, confirm the delivery route, position the services, then build the kitchen. Not the other way round.

Call 0330 133 6617 and we'll go through the figures for your chosen model before anything is cut.